Today marks my first on-the-job moral quandary. As a public relations officer promoting tourism in a developing country, I expect many more of these. I'm sure my year at SIT has prepared me well?
Throughout my first work week, I have spent the majority of my time reading. Obviously, in order to write about tourism and my organization, I must first understand what it is I will be writing about. But reading all day is boring. So as the assignments have slowly trickled in, I attack them with enthusiasm.
Today, besides more reading, I have been given the task of rewriting an article about the success of the first Jordanian flea market, now in its third year. SOUK JARA was created through the partnership of the Greater Amman Municipality (GAM) and the Jabal Amman Residents Association (JARA) They have converted a street in a historic neighborhood into what they call "a dynamic marketplace". And indeed it is extremely popular, especially with tourist. I was excited to have been given the article because I had unknowingly attended the market's last day this past Friday. The area was crowded with people, none of whom spoke Arabic. However, the shopping was very relaxed, perhaps because we were all languishing under the intense sun. To counteract the ever present cotton mouth here, I enjoyed fresh squeezed lemonade from a stall run by a Habitat for Humanity employee who turned out to be a friend of a friend. A common Jordanian phenomenon.
The other stalls sold trinkets, handicrafts, food and clothing. The vendors were friendly and my roommate struck up a conversation in French with a Senegalese who traveled the area selling wood carvings and who was delighted to converse in his second tongue. I also purchased a large scarf that I have grown quite attached to as it allows me to cover myself comfortably and to wear a tank top underneath for places where bare arms are acceptable. I found the experience to be extremely pleasant and mentally noted it as an activity for future visitors.
The market is located in one of the oldest sections of down town, Jabal Amman. Antiquity is coveted in a city that is developing exponentially. It is in a residential area and we had to crawl through alleys and up and down dangerously steep steps and through narrow streets to reach it. It was in fact the first time I truly felt like I was in the Middle East and I reveled in the adventure. However, the market is basically the equivalent of parking "the new" smack in the middle of "the old".
As I was researching facts about the history of the area that I could add to the article, I stumbled onto a blog with comments lambasting the market. Apparently, some residents despise it, claiming it is noisy, dirty and crowded and that it deteriorates their neighborhood, increases traffic, theft and violence . The market is also open on Friday, the day of rest in the Muslim culture. After more web surfing with a sinking stomach, I found an article in Arabic and through the wonders of Google Translate read that a society of Jabal Amman Veterans had been created in order to protest. However, the youth of the area seem to enjoy the souk, and others argue that it is a great addition to a changing Amman.
It is one of the age-old dilemmas of tourism. Bringing outsiders into a country can destroy the fabric of their society, taint the culture and ruin the historical artifacts. And of course this happens locally as well. Before I left the country, my friends and I visited the Sturgis Bike Rally and my mom, who had grown up in the area, lamented that the event was damaging the economy and the culture for the locals. However, as in most places, tourism is one of the biggest industries. In Jordan it contributes 10% to the GDP. Jobs are created and FDI is attracted. As well, individuals from cultures where the Middle East is misrepresented are able to learn and break stereotypes and return home to educate those around them.
Obviously I will finish the article and turn it in for publication. However, the dispute reminds me that there are always two sides to the same coin. As a sheltered American in this country, this is a fact that I easily forget. I'm glad for the reminder.
*I cannot claim this picture as my own. I have been very lazy about taking pictures, but promise to improve.
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